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Taipei 101: Introduction to Taiwan

2/20/2017

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After enjoying our delicious lunch of soup dumplings, Justin, our friend and I parted ways with her family and headed out to see some awesome Taipei architecture. Our first stop was the Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall. The building is dedicated to the founding father and first president of the Republic of China. He also established the Kuomintang Party, one of the major parties in Taiwan. He was instrumental in overthrowing the Qing Dynasty, which was China’s last imperial dynasty. When the Republic of China lost to the communists in 1949, they retreated to Taiwan, while still considering themselves to be the true government of China.

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Sun Yat-Sen is regarded as an important historical figure for both mainland Chinese as well as Taiwanese. As such, people from both sides of the Taiwan Strait make pilgrimages to his memorial hall. For Taiwanese, his philosophical ideals, called “The Three Principals of the People,” are the important core to their nation. Summed up briefly, his principals include nationalism (independence), democracy, and livelihood (free trade). He was the mentor and inspiration for many of Taiwan’s other famous leaders.

The Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall is minimalistic in design, with an elegantly swooping roof, tiled in auspicious yellow. The roof is supported by large columns surrounding a red-brick exterior. Outside the building are artfully landscaped gardens of the Chung-Shan Park. Taiwanese people are inclined to utilize their public spaces, so we saw many groups practicing various routines or exercises on its surrounded patios, including elderly citizens practicing tai chi and a young group running through their hip-hop performance. Inside, a vast tiled room houses a large statue of Sun Yat-Sen, seated and looking out. Throughout the hall you can find displays detailing the history of the Sun Yat-Sen, the wars he fought in, and the early establishment of Taiwan.

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The statue itself is guarded by two sharply dressed soldiers. They stand there as still as statues themselves for an entire hour. At the end of their shift, another set of guarded comes to replace them. They switch is accompanied by strict ceremony, slow and deliberate. Many tourists come close to the hour mark in order to observe the change of guards. Luckily, we arrived at the perfect time to watch! The precision of their movements was truly impressive, but if you have small children it might be unbearably slow for them.

After walking through the Memorial Hall, we ventured outside again to make our way to the most famous building of Taipei: Taipei 101. A short couple of blocks from the Sun Yat-Sen Memorial, Taipei 101 rises over the city, an iconic landmark easily spotted wherever you may be. While it only held the title of Tallest in the World from 2004 until 2010, it is nevertheless an impressive structure to behold. Reminiscent of traditional Chinese architecture with its stepped pattern, the single glass tower juts into the sky, peaking with a smaller, pointed turret. The tower strikes many dramatic visages depending on the time of day or the angle at which you gaze up at it.

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Designed by C.Y. Lee, it is an environmentally friendly building serving multiple functions. Much of the building serves as office space for wealthy companies. Another section is a high end shopping mall with an extensive and affordable food court. The interior is spotless and glossy, reminding us always of the hefty price tags inside the stores. Obviously, the most important part for Justin and I was to be able to go up to the top observatory.

Going to the top costs 500NT per person (about $15 USD). You stand in a line to get tickets and then go stand in another, sometimes very long line to get into the elevator. On the way there you can get your picture taken with Taipei 101 digitally added as a back drop. Justin and I opted out. When you cram into the elevator, it takes you to the top in a manner of seconds. You can feel your ears pop on the way while you enjoy a brief light show in the dark box.

At the top a 360 degree glass observatory awaits you, looking out onto all reaches of the city. The view feels different depending on whether you go during the day or at night. Justin and I did both at separate times. During the day you can see the detail on all the buildings and the beauty of the hills surrounding the city. Sometimes the smog can be terrible, making visibility low, but it’s still a great view. At night, the city and car lights make for a dazzling display. It’s fun to try to find places in the city you’ve visited. The gardens outside the Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall are especially pretty, as their special designs are better appreciated from the air. The observatory also houses a large display of art made from orange coral. You can even step outside onto a gated observatory platform where the wind pulls at your hair and clothes.

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On the way down, you can look at the innovative solution for keeping Taipei 101 safe during Taiwan’s frequent earthquakes called a tuned mass damper. A giant gold ball held up by thick metal ropes stabilizes the building as it sways. The damper inspired the building’s cutesy mascot, called Damper Baby, who greets you at various locations throughout Taipei 101. Damper technology is not rare, but no one does it as adorably as Taipei 101.


​To me, however, Taipei 101 is best appreciated from the outside. At night, the building is lit up in an array of colors which change slowly. Craning your neck to look straight up the building has a dizzying effect. If you get the chance to visit, shoot for New Years, when fireworks are famously shot off the sides of the building in a dazzling display. Unfortunately our work schedule would not have allowed us to make the show, and I heard that the shows may stop because of another sky-scraper that is being built nearby. So visit soon!

Another great reason to visit Taipei 101 is to eat at its most famous restaurant, Din Tai Feng. Awarded an elusive Michelin Star, this restaurant is most famous for its soup dumplings. We ate there the second time we visited Taipei 101, when Justin’s parents came to visit us in October. The wait to get in is very long—you sign up for a ticket and get assigned a number. Be prepared for an hour wait on even a slow Tuesday, longer if it’s busy or the weekend. They don’t take reservations, so plan to get your number and do some shopping in the meantime.

Before you are seated you can watch the chefs making the dumplings. Once you are seated, a clean menu complete with English translations as well as pictures is presented to you. Obviously we ordered several baskets of soup dumplings, but also steamed BBQ pork buns, beef noodle soup, and fried rice with spiced pork. The dumplings were the star the show, of course, but BBQ pork buns and beef noodle soup were also deliciously satisfying. The fried rice was a revelation. The pork was a perfect burst of flavor, but the fried rice was the most sophisticated tasting fried rice I’ve ever had. Made simply with egg and green onions, the distinct flavors of each ingredient really stood out. I’m drooling just remembering it. Din Tai Feng clearly deserves that Star. It’s also surprisingly affordable. For four people we managed to feast for about $80.

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Although Taipei 101 is perhaps the most clichéd sight to visit in Taipei, I highly recommend it. Being able to see the veins of Taipei is an experience that should not be passed up. 
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Pockets of Heaven: Soup Dumplings in Taipei

2/11/2017

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During our week of training in Taipei, we had very little time to see the sights. However, we did manage early in the week to join our friend—the one who introduced us to Taipei’s Shilin Night Mark—for delicious food before the training schedule really took over our free time.

Our friend was nice enough to invite Justin and I to join her family and enjoy what would become my absolute favorite Taiwanese food: soup dumplings. Her family, which included her grandparents and her cousin, met up with us at a small hole-in-the-wall restaurant. Inside, the staff was busy making the delicious bites, but they immediately recognized her family and greeted us with warmth and enthusiasm. I asked if I could film them making the dumplings, and they kindly obliged.

Soup dumplings (xiao long bao) come in a variety of styles, but this particular kind was about the size of a golf ball. Soft, chewy dough is rolled out with a small wooden rolling pin and filled with a spoonful of pork, vegetables, and gelatinous soup. The cooks then roll the ball up and fold in the edges in a spiraling pattern with exactly the right number of folds, leaving a tiny pinhole at the top for steam to escape. The best chefs train for years to get the perfect weight of the dumplings and to fold them just right. The chefs at this restaurant moved quickly and expertly, joining speed with effortless precision. The dumplings are then steamed inside a bamboo basket, while the soup inside melts into a liquid.

When they are served, you lift each one individually into a spoon, feeling the tempting weight of the meatball and soup inside. Usually they are dipped in a mixture of soy sauce and vinegar. The exact portions are up to you, although it is recommended to try one without the sauce first. It’s also a suggestion to have more vinegar than soy sauce, and to only use a little. Personally, I prefer a little more soy sauce. Some people bite into the dumpling straight away, letting the hot soup burst inside their mouths, but you run the risk of burning yourself. The way my friend taught us was to open a small hole in the side of the dumplings with your chopsticks and slurp the soup out that way. Other people like to drain the soup out into the spoon and then eat it together in one bite.

However you choose to eat your soup dumplings, you are guaranteed to have an amazing experience. The broth is light and delicate, pairing nicely with the meatiness of the pork. The steamed dough is the perfect chewy texture without being mushy, and the sharpness of the soy-vinegar sauce cuts through for a nice contrast. They are absolutely addicting and usually very cheap if you go to the kind of restaurant we visited. Each dumpling was only about 50 cents, so we worked our way through several baskets.


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                  Along with the dumplings we had fried rice, beef noodle soup (which is worthy of a blog post all its own), noodles in sesame sauce, and another kind of dumpling filled with vegetables. Everything was delicious, but nothing could compare to the perfection of the soup dumplings.

                Soup dumpling quality tends to vary in Taiwan. Some small places, like the one we visited, serve top-tier ones as a ridiculously good price. Other shops sell them for a good price, but they may be frozen and store bought, so not as flavorful. There are also the top tier soup dumplings you can get from Din Tai Feng, a famous Michelin Star winning restaurant in Taipei (and a few other locations). I had the whole spectrum, and I have to say that the ones we first ate in that tiny restaurant were on par, if not better, than those we paid much more for at Din Tai Feng. If there is one thing that you eat in Taiwan, I would have to recommend the soup dumplings. Hopefully you can find a nice local to share their favorite spot with you. 
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Deliciously Stinky: The Shilin Night Market

1/3/2017

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(Source.)
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Your ears are barraged by the constant hum of the dense crowd around you, pierced by the heckling calls of stall owners hawking their wares. A rainbow of neon lights, cute mascots, brightly colored clothing and toys all vie for your attention as you walk on tip toe to peer over the sea of heads. This stall sizzles as a fresh row of sausages are added to the griddle. That one buzzes from a machine cranking out shaved ice. Something catches your eye and you start to wade through the bodies, accidentally brushing against butts and bellies. Suddenly you stumble into the reek radius of some stinky tofu, a hot and rancid smell, which propels you away, back into the current. Despite the night air, the Taiwanese humidity and the sheer number of people are stifling and the stinky tofu scent lingers in your nose, so you finally step out of the throng in front of a fruit stall. Bright yellow star fruit, pink passion fruits, thorny durians, bumpy Buddha’s heads all tempt you. You settle on slices of wax apple, red on the outside, pale green inside, crispy and full of water, subtly sweet and refreshing. Your palate now primed, you return to the steady river of shoppers, on the hunt for a long queue, because in Taiwan, where there’s a line, there’s deliciousness. The constant assault on your senses leaves you delightfully wired. This is Shilin Night Market.

One of my favorite people from my training group was from New York City, but her family was Taiwanese and lived in Taiwan. In addition to just being awesome, she was also kind enough to help me and the other trainees get to know Taipei. It was definitely nice to have someone who knew how to speak Mandarin and was familiar with the city. Early on during training we all took a trip to one of the most quintessentially Taiwanese places, a night market, with my friend as our guide.

Night markets are a major part of Taiwanese culture, and one of the things that really stands out as unique about the country. Almost every city has a night market, but some are more famous than others. They are a series of streets and roads that are lined with myriad shops selling a million things. Some stores are just rollaway stands while others have dedicated real estate in the buildings, but almost all of them are quite small.

Most of the stands sell food, including everything from ice cream to chicken feet. Some appeal to standard American tastes with things like Korean fried chicken or loaded baked potatoes, and some are for broader palates (or people used to Taiwanese food), like blood cakes and chicken gizzards. Outside of food, the stores sell clothing, cell phone cases, video games, candy, toys, jewelry, and many, many other random things.
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                                        (Source.)
The particular night market we went to in Taipei is one of the most famous ones in the country, called Shilin Night Market. This being our first night market experience, there were two big shocks to the system. First of all, it is CROWDED! Squished like sardines against your neighbors, you are funneled along the streets, trying desperately to decipher the hundreds of stores in front of you to catch something you might like. Then you have to wriggle your way free in order to buy something. It’s chaotic and fun, but definitely not for agoraphobic people! It’s easy to miss something you might enjoy, especially when you don’t speak the language and it takes you longer to figure out what a store is offering. I constantly felt like I was in the way, but eventually I learned to stop caring because no one else does.

The second shock comes when you innocently wander into the smell radius of an infamous Taiwanese food: stinky tofu! (Dun dun dun!) Stinky tofu is fermented tofu, sometimes stewed, sometimes fried. The story I heard was that a tofu stall owner forgot to put away his tofu and it had fermented, stinking terribly. Loath to let the food go to waste, he added salt and pepper and ate it anyway. He discovered that the fermentation had given the tofu a delicious flavor, despite the horrible smell. So he sold it to others and a national dish was born. Don’t underestimate the smell! It really is an attack on your nose. A trainee friend started gagging. I tried to be polite by not holding my nose, but it was really awful, and I wasn’t very successful. The best comparison I can give is that is smells like sweaty gym socks stewed in vomit. That smell covers a five block circle. Foreigners gag, Taiwanese come running! Yummy! Apparently the tofu is supposed to be delicious, and the fried version is reportedly less stinky, so if you visit Taiwan and are brave, give it a shot. I never managed to open my mouth long enough to dare a bite. I actually regret not trying it.

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(The boiled version of stinky tofu. Source.)
Despite the crowds and the stink, the night market was actually a lot of fun. It’s a really great alternative to a restaurant to just take 1000 NTD (Taiwanese dollars) and bounce from stand to stand, trying small portions of a dozen different kinds of food. Many popular restaurants start out as stands in night markets. If they prove to be popular, they can then afford to expand. I suggest trying the Korean fried chicken, sausages in rice buns, green onion pancakes, bits of a fruit you don’t recognize, and any of the hundreds of tea options. You can also find amazing deals in the stores, especially on clothes. The prices are definitely refreshing, especially if you’ve spent time in the pricey department stores that are also popular in Taiwan. Not only are many of the current fashions cheaply attained at night markets, you also are more likely to find something uniquely designed and hand made by the store owner.

I definitely recommend any night market in Taiwan, but especially the Shilin night market, which is the biggest. They generally pick up around seven and go late into the night. Bring walking shoes and brace yourself for the jostling. Keep an eye on your belongings, but I never got robbed. In general, it’s not likely to happen, but it’s still a good idea to be mindful in such close quarters. Most importantly, have fun, and don’t worry about being in the way if you spot something deliciously tempting 10 people away from you. 
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(One of the great thigns about Taiwan: so many fruits you don't even know the name of! Source.)
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    About Me

    My name is Candace Graue, and I teach English in Japan with my husband, Justin. Together, we are slowly traveling our way around the world. Sometimes our adventures are grand, sometimes they are small, but they are always beautiful.

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